Knitting in the Movies (and TV): "Outlander"

There is a thread currently running in the Historic-Knitting Yahoo group, prompted when someone asked, "So, the 'Outlander' series -- is the knitting accurate?" and the numerous replies came back with a resounding "No!" 

The first photo (above) is a lovely look, with all of the soft greys, and the gown is pretty accurate, historically speaking, except that it probably should have a separate stomacher (instead of what is apparently all one piece), as well as at least a lace or linen "tuck" peeking out from the neckline. But knitted shawls didn't appear until the early 1800s (Shetland shawls in the 1830s) -- even though it seems not a far leap to us now, knitted garments remained pretty firmly in the region of caps, stockings, undershirts, and gloves until some decades into the 19th century.

Part of the problem here seems to be that the designer of the "Outlander" costumes, Terry Dresbach, quickly became self-defensive (and sarcastic) when others started questioning the historical accuracy of the knitted garments, and seemed to want to have it both ways when she said that her work is extensively researched and plausible if not authentic (e.g. the gowns are not hand-sewn, certain French fashions are apparently not documented in Scotland at the time but could have been there because of the close Franco-Scottish relationship, etc.), and that leeway was taken due to budget and time constrictions.  Those who are sticklers for historical accuracy -- which admittedly isn't always possible with costumes for either theatre or movies, for different reasons -- feel that Dresbach can't have it both ways.  It seems to me that with the sewn garments Dresbach has done a wonderful job in synthesizing the requirements of film and the historical record, but, surprisingly, then dropped the ball as to the knitwear.

The gist of the rebuttals on the Historic-Knitting list seems to be that the knitted garments are in styles that are not appropriate to the period, and far too coarse, when most knitting of the period was done on fine needles with fine wool, or by machine, except for a few items such as sailors' caps and seaboot stockings.

This garment, for example, is a fairly logical jump from "worn-out cloak cut down to a shoulder-warmer" to "knitted version of that", but I don't think there is any documentation that anything like this was ever knitted, in Scotland or anywhere, in the 18th century.  Claire is, however, obviously wearing appropriate stays, so kudos for that.

This looks very good on the face of it, especially because she is wearing a kerchief over her neck and bosom, and there is a lot of evidence for fingerless mitts of this kind -- just none of them knitted.  Again, it seems a short jump to us, especially when you know that knitted stockings were common, but at this period fingerless gloves were sewn out of fabric.

No, no, no.  The gown is very good, and is an excellent choice of colors, fabrics, and patterns (though I think the stomacher is too long), but the chunky knitted cowl practically shouts "late 20th-century!"

This cowl puzzles me, as I suspect that it is knitted, since fur wouldn't drape quite so beautifully (but then, I don't wear much fur, perhaps someone else could offer an opinion?).  This simplest kind of tubular knitted wrist-warmer did not make its first appearance until the beginning of the 19th century, and then was knitted with fine wool on small needles, not chunky stuff like this.  (We tend to think that Aran knitting, for example, has been around for centuries, but Aran jumpers were in fact invented around 1900.)  Again, the gown is very good -- and closes with pins, or perhaps hooks-and-eyes -- but not the knitting.

This is so obviously a modern shrug that I don't need to say anything.  Again, this gown is good, but she needs a kerchief over her bosom.

I'm a little perplexed by the fichu -- which to my eye looks exactly like a worn-out high-necked smock cut off and used as a fichu, an excellent and frugal use of worn-out garments.  Did it happen?  Maybe -- probably.  Is it accurate?  I don't know.  But the muffatees -- no.  The earliest known reference to knitted muffatees that I can find is 1813, when an officer in Wellington's Foot Guard wrote home asking for some; they were obviously being home-knitted by then, but again, that's at least fifty years after the "Outlander" series is set, and they would have been worked with finer wool on smaller needles than these, comfy and warm though these doubtless are.

Too chunky, and it's apparently not a flat piece of knitting, but shaped?

This looks so much like the shawl worn by Mrs. Forrester in "Cranford" that it's hard to believe it isn't the same one reused, but either way, "Cranford" was set in the 1840s when knitted shawls were starting to become more widely made at home.  The mitts almost work for this period.

Now if I were a cook wearing thick knitted wristwarmers, I would certainly do what Mrs. Fitz has done here, and turn them up out of the way, or they would look like the dog's breakfast after only a few minutes' of work, but if I really was a cook in the 1740s I would far more likely be wearing sewn woollen wristwarmers.

This is the only knitted garment I've seen that works in its historical period -- Claire in the 1940s wears a knitted slipover.  Lots of documentation for this, and any number of patterns still available.

I think, actually, that the problem resides not in Dresbach's choices as a costume designer, but in her insistence that the costumes -- that is, the costumes as a whole -- are historically accurate.  If she had said, which as far as I can tell she has not, that the "leeway" is specifically with the knitwear, then it would not be so jarring to those who never saw a Moebius cowl before Elizabeth Zimmermann's in 1983.

Comments

[--Deb]

I didn't get to watch Outlander (not having Starz), but the pictures I've seen of the costumes are amazing. I agree about the knits, though. I'm willing to let certain things slide, but yeah ... that bulky cowl just has to go!

[Claire Helene]

This is interesting! I had no idea the knitwear was period. I know that the knit pieces have been attracting a lot of attention. One of my friends owns a yarn shop and she said she keeps getting questions about Outlander. After I read your post, I googled and found this: http://www.buzzfeed.com/alannaokun/the-knitwear-on-outlander-is-possibly-the-best-part-of-the-s#.nodGD1R8Q No wonder the costume person sounds so testy over the calls about historical inaccuracy. She sounds super pleased with herself over the pieces! I agree with you, though, it would have been an easy thing to discuss as you said above, but she's trying to have it both ways.

[Jeanne]

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Claire Helene,That is exactly what is bugging the historical-knitting purists, that people who dont know, now think that chunky wristwarmers and infinity cowls have been around since 1745. The Jane Austen Knits magazines are in a similar position very few of the items in them are really something that a Regency person would have knitted or worn, i.e. that even existed as knitwear at the time.This is very much like the question of historical accuracy in movies I mean actual events, not just clothing. How much leeway can we take with real events? Do we owe anything to the historical record? Where do we draw the line between the necessities of boiling a story down to 2 hours, and the historical record?Thanks for commenting,Jeanne

[marylou]

Some one has a costume blog I stumbled across where she points out the re-use of costumes, particularly 'historic' ones. If I could remember where or who, she might have the Cranford shawl. Sooo many people have asked me about the outlander cowl. Sheesh.

[Sarina]

I enjoyed reading the knitting history in this post. If I had seen this show, I probably would've dumbly admired the knitwear and wouldn't have noticed how inaccurate it really is.

[Jeanne]

Sarina, I’ve learned a lot from the Historic-Knitting listers! There are some amazingly knowledgeable knitters there.

[Liz]

I'm pretty sure there weren't time travelers from the modern age running around in historic Scotland either.

[Karen B]

Very interesting blog post. I'm actually sad to hear all the knitted items aren't accurate. I (as a knitter) have very much enjoyed the knitted costume pieces in this show. Sad not accurate, but happy still beautiful. (I just knitted up that super chunky cowl, blocking now.)

[Jeanne]

Karen, I’ve seen some very charming and appealing designs in the “Jane Austen Knits” series of magazines! There is certainly no reason not to admire them or the “Outlander” designs – but we shouldn’t assume from either that they are historically accurate. And I see no reason not to wear them, either as part of a modern ensemble or a costume, as long as historical accuracy isn’t an issue!

[debbi read]

Importance in Scottish history
1855 sketch of a shepherd knitting, while watching his flock.

Knitting was such an important occupation among those living on the Scottish Isles during the 17th and 18th centuries that whole families were involved in making sweaters, accessories, socks, stockings, etc.[19] Fair Isle techniques were used to create elaborate colorful patterns. Sweaters were essential garments for the fishermen of these islands because the natural oils within the wool provided some element of protection against the harsh weather encountered while out fishing. ..... I take it Wikipedia got it wrong then???

[Jeanne]

Well, Debbi, I’m glad you pointed that out, because the answer to your question (“I take it Wikipedia got it wrong then???”) is I think “No, and yes.”

Wikipedia: “Fair Isle techniques were used to create elaborate colorful patterns. Sweaters were essential garments for the fishermen of these islands because the natural oils within the wool provided some element of protection against the harsh weather encountered while out fishing”. Yes, for the most part. Giving only one reason for fishermen to wear woolen sweaters makes it sound like that’s the *only* reason, though, when logically it is clear that a sweater in stranded knitting is also going to be warmer simply because it is thicker! (See also Norwegian stranded knitting and Swedish two-end knitting, which also make thick and thus very warm garments.)

Wikipedia: “Knitting was such an important occupation among those living on the Scottish Isles during the 17th and 18th centuries that whole families were involved in making sweaters, accessories, socks, stockings, etc.[19]” (citing Ann Feitelson’s “The Art of Fair Isle Knitting: History, Technique, Color and Pattern” (Interweave, 1996). The passage on page 19 of Feitelson’s book discusses Fair Isle knitting in the 19th century, with only a few mentions in passing of the 18th century, so Wikipedia is *not quite* right. “In 1814, Sir Walter Scott visited Fair Isle and wrote of men wearing ‘striped worsted caps,’” with reference in the next paragraph to fig.1-5, an 1857 Dutch lithograph of Dutch fishermen wearing Fair Isle caps, possibly acquired by trading with Fair Isle fishermen. “The earliest printed notice of Fair Isle knitwear for sale in Shetland, shown in illustration 1-6, appeared in the ‘Shetland Advertiser’ in January 1862 … the knitting identified specifically as ‘Fair Isle’ is described as a curiosity, that is, a rare and attention-getting novelty.” And “Most nineteenth-century Fair Isle knitwear consisted of small items such as the aforementioned hats, and wristlets, socks, gloves, and scarves” – not sweaters.

The passage on page 28 of Feitelson’s book is quotes from Shetland knitters recalling knitting at home as children and young women, the earliest date specifically mentioned being “the early 1940s” but presumably there were earlier ones too, as she quotes “a ninety-four-year-old woman” – but the point is that these women *remembered* knitting items at home for sale, so they clearly were not knitting in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Regarding specifically Fair Isle knitting, Feitelson says, “There is no mention of patterned knitting … done on Fair Isle until 1842, when James Wilson, a scientist/traveler from Great Britain, noted ‘peculiar patterns of gloves and caps’…. Previous writers, such as Janet Schaw of Edinburgh, in a 1774 account of a trip to Fair Isle, spoke of ‘Island manufactures: such as knit caps, mittens, socks, and the softest cloth I ever saw made of wool” (15), though note that Schaw doesn’t mention the stranded knitting we now call Fair Isle.

(I am amused, by the way, that Feitelson says that Wilson was “from Great Britain” traveling in the Shetlands, as though the islands were so remote as to be not thought of as part of Scotland!)

Thanks for commenting!

[Jeanne]

PS, the dead link for the phrase "caps, stockings, undershirts, and gloves" led at the time of posting to a Google Books preview of "Traditional Knitted Lace Shawls" by Martha Waterman. The quote I was aiming at is on page 6:

"There is evidence that caps, stockings, shirts, and gloves have been hand knitted ... since the fourteenth century"

and the rest of that chapter on the history of shawls.

[Emily Morris]

My mother knitted the mustard coloured jumper for the Durrels. She is 76 and loves knitting. Our family friend Charlotte Holdich did the costumes for the Durrels and asked her to knit it. She will be really pleased that it was noticed.

[Emily Morris]

And yes it was all done by hand !

[Kendal]

Oh darn! Well, I'll probably knit them anyway. For my first real knitting project, I did one of the shawls that Brianna wore, but I did learn some things in the process. Mainly that the yarn they used for her shawl was synthetic and not something that would have existed back then, what with the ombre/whatever-you-call-it colour. I opted for a pure wool yarn made from local sheep, and had to alter the pattern because it just didn't come in a thickness equal to that synthetic stuff. I was disappointed that they chose to do that, and extra disappointed that the shawls aren't period authentic at all! And the hand warmers. Who researched this? Wouldn't they have thought to look up what people wore and how they were made? How hard would it have been? And to not use synthetic materials...? Ugg.

[Jeanne]

Kendal, yes, you should *absolutely* knit them anyway if you love them, and enjoy both the knitting and the wearing! I don’t want to imply that they are not useful and fun knits, especially with the added pleasure one gets from being part of a fan community!

Just please, please, please enjoy them for what they are, not as historically-accurate clothing! :)

[Anna]

Thank you- I love the knitting in outlander but it has bugged me. Im from a nordic country of "farming" heritage. And when Ive seen okder knitting from our country from the 1800 and perhaps earlier it is always with very fine yarn. And the craft is very beautiful . With either patterns in colour or texture. Never coarse like those in Outlander. There are socks, mittens, caps and sweaters, The shawls were I think woven not knitted. But since Im not that goid at history I wasnt sure about it. But now I know I was right. The Outlander knit is lovely, but more 2000th then 1700.

[Lea]

What yarn was used for knitted garments in Outlander series? Rowan?